Turn the refrigerator thermostat up to the next highest setting. If it comes on, let it run for 24 hours and check temperature to confirm it is working properly.
Clear/remove anything blocking the air flow around the outside of the refrigerator (on top, underneath, behind, beside, in front of, etc.). Allow 3″ of clearance all the way around.
If there are condenser coils on the rear of the box, make sure the box is several inches from the wall and that nothing is on top at the rear, blocking the heat from coming off the coils.
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the unit that needs to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the unit from the power source, use a special condenser brush (available at Appliance Accessories stores) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to the entire condenser from the front; it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Wipe off the face of the gasket with a wet rag and make sure the interior shelves, drawers and food are not preventing the door from closing from the inside.
Check to see whether the icemaker has been turned off. Here’s how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the icemaker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the icemaker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the icemaker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahrenheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the icemaker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
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